The Spanish fortress at St. Augustine is truly old and truly a marvel of 16th Century military engineering. Around these core truths, as Ring Lardner wryly observed almost 90 years ago, has developed what can only be called a theme park of a downtown. It is, however, a theme park with a patina in its paint, old enough to be respectable in its own right. And for boaters, St. Augustine is both useful and fun.

Whether you are mindlessly competitive or need to entertain the kids, one inexpensive pastime here is a game I call Lion. It's dead simple: When you see a lion, say "Lion!" and keep score. Spotting the most lions over a designated period makes you a winner; your prize is a margarita or an egg phosphate (whatever that may be) for the younger winners.

If you are unfamiliar with Florida history, an explanation is in order. Legend has it that Ponce de Leon (lion in Spanish) "discovered" St.Augustine while looking for the Fountain of Youth. One of the themes repeated throughout this theme park are depictions of lions, whether the Bridge of Lions spanning the harbor or the statue of old Ponce himself (Lion!). Enjoy a nice walk on the live oakshaded streets, inhale the salty air and keep a lookout for big felines.

Coming from the sea can be tricky; the St. Augustine inlet should not be tried in anything but fair weather because it is shallow with shifting sands. If in doubt, come in to the St. Johns River to the north and follow the Intracoastal Waterway to the city.

For boaters passing through St. Augustine, there are three convenient marinas, each with their own advantages. Camachee Cove is a first-class facility north of the St. Augustine inlet with onsite amenities, a boatyard and privacy. Unless you have a fast RIB to deploy, you'll want a cab or courtesy car to get downtown.

The Conch House Marina lies on Salt Creek, south of the inlet; it's got new floating docks as well, but with a tavern on the wharf, it maintains a funkier atmosphere. That atmosphere is cooler in the literal sense, being the marina most exposed to the ocean breeze. I would be remiss if I failed to mention Reggae Sunday, a hugely popular summer tradition honoring consumption of alcohol, and island music. It's a zoo that one must either love or hate.

The third choice would be my preference. If you don't mind docking in strong current, the St. Augustine Municipal Marina is best for its access to the attractions of downtown. If you choose to anchor along the city's waterfront, this is also where you must land in your dinghy, and it's not free. Dinghy dockage is $7.50 a day, $35 a week or $125 a month-charges designed to discourage impecunious liveaboards from putting down roots.

With its dedication to the past, it should not be a surprise that St. Augustine is awash with museums as well. I will only mention three. If children are involved, Ripley's Believe It or Not Museum with its goofy distractions is worth a couple hours. The Lightner Museum has its share of oddities as well, being dedicated, for lack of better words, to Victorian Era esoterica. If boating is not your only bad habit, there is nearby World Golf Village with its Hall of Fame museum, shops and two signature 18-hole courses. You'll need to hire a cab to get there.

To provision, the easiest thing to do might be to seek a transient slip at one of the marinas on the nearby San Sebastian River, which connects the ICW to the backside of the city. These marinas are an easy walk to a supermarket and a West Marine store. Plus, a half a block down King Street, you will find one of those classic nautical surplus stores cluttered with all sorts of treasure and bits; its called Sailors Exchange. Also along the San Sebastian are several capable boatyards with travel lifts.

From its earliest days, St.Augustine saw itself as an outpost in the wilderness. To anyone skeptical of the insane growth as you move further south, the city continues to serve as an outpost of moderation. Touristy? Yes, but useful, too, and with its own unique sense of place. Egg phosphate.